There are 4, basic types of wood routers on the market these days: laminate trimmers, lightweight or low-powered routers in the 7/eight to 1 1/2 HP variety, medium-powered routers in the 1 and 3-quarters to two and 1-quarter HP range and higher-powered routers in the 3-4 HP range. Each has its use and I have owned all of them at the same time. The laminate trimmers do what their name implies as nicely as other light-weight tasks such as creating hinge mortises. They are only appropriate for little router bits but they are easily maneuverable and fit nicely right in your palm.
If you require much more horsepower but nonetheless like the ease of a lightweight router, the 7/8 to 1/12 HP routers will do a fine job of spinning router bits up to a half-inch radius round-more than bits. Each shop ought to have one of these handy for bench-leading function. They are a bit little for router table use. Two and one-quarter HP woodworking routers have adequate power to spin large router bits via hardwood and yet they are nonetheless light sufficient to be manageable as bench-leading wood routers. While any wood router more than 2 HP can be utilized in a router table, I favor the high powered ones for that application simply because there is no need to be concerned about how heavy they are and you might as well have as much power handy as you may require. Most, but not all, of these larger routers are plunge routers. The high horsepower is necessary to plunge big bits deep into hardwood to make mortises and the like.
If I could only afford 1 wood router, it would be the two and one-quarter HP variety simply because it is light enough for most bench-top function and can also be used in a router table. If I could afford two routers, I would most likely have a 7/8 to 1½ HP machine for bench-top work and a 3½ HP wood router under my router table. I don't like mounting and dismounting routers below my router table, so getting a lighter wood router on hand near the bench at all occasions truly speeds things up.
I'd like to make a few observations about routers. First, I recommend you consider utilizing only higher-quality carbide-tipped router bits in these woodworking tools anytime possible. They can be re-sharpened many occasions and they usually don't burn up and load up if they are kept sharp. High-speed steel bits don't last lengthy, they are not worth sharpening and they dull rapidly, burning your work piece as they soon load up and turn black from burning. Occasionally, however, the bit profile you require may only be accessible in a higher speed steel bit: This is the exception rather than the rule.
Second, as hand-held power woodworking tools, heavy and/or leading-heavy routers are hard to manage. Not only will you be struggling with them all day, they tend to tip easily which can often ruin a cut or leave an incomplete cut. If a smaller, low-profile wood router could have spun that bit, then that is the tool you should have been utilizing. how to find the best wood router