Are the handles comfortable sufficient for continuous use? Do the shape and material of the handles permit you to manage the wood router correctly? Some of these woodworking tools are also available with "D" handles (at extra cost) which might give you better control and really feel. 1 wood router from Milwaukee even provides a padded grip around the exterior of the router base. 1 hand goes on the rubber grip while the other goes on a conventional knob.
Fourth, if your wood router is in the 2 1/4 HP variety, you will want it to have a variable speed feature, particularly if you are preparing on using big bits like raised panel bits. You will require to run these large bits a bit slower. They will stay cooler and reduce better at a lower speed. On the other hand, you will get smoother cuts with little bits of you keep the speed high. No matter what RPM you select, you will want your wood router to be able to preserve that speed at all times, no matter how hard you push it. Electronic speed manage allows your wood router to compensate for heavy loads by automatically adding a adequate quantity of additional energy to keep your wood router spinning at the exact same speed it was before the reduce started.
Fifth, (and this is a safety consideration) try to purchase a wood router that has "soft" start-up. This would not be a required feature in stationary woodworking tools but is an essential safety device in a hand-held wood router. Historically, routers have had only one speed (high) and when you turn them on, they spin up rapidly. The gyroscopic force of that can flip a spinning wood router right out of your hands. A soft start-up power tool gradually increases its speed from zero to complete, therefore eliminating nearly all of the gyroscopic impact.
tips and tricks for maintaining a wood router
Sixth, if you are going to be altering bits all the time, consider what actions you will have to go via to accomplish that job. Some routers have a shaft lock button so you only require 1 hand to hold down the button and 1 wrench to turn the collet nut. I'm type of utilized to the two-wrench variety. I generally take the router motor completely out of its base, lay it on its side on the table, putting 1 wrench on the flat component of the shaft and the other wrench on the collet nut. If I am loosening the collet nut, I will first reduce the shaft wrench to the table leading and then push down towards the bench with the wrench that's on the collet nut. If I am tightening the collet nut, I will put the collet nut wrench down to the table top and then push down against that with the shaft wrench on the flat component of the shaft.
If you've utilized routers at all, you must have noticed that when you are loosening a collet nut, you will feel resistance at the start of the turn of the wrench and then it will turn freely for a while before resisting the wrench 1 more time. The initial resistance comes from loosening the nut itself. The nut then unscrews a bit down the thread and then it begins to push against the collet, releasing it from the shaft of the router bit.