pakaian Bundle Terpilih!Imagine an unbelievably gorgeous Australian seashore, encircled by a natural amphitheatre that's good for wave viewing. Ah, the Rip Curl Professional at Bells Beach on the south-eastern coast of Australia- a giant wave location with a thirty yr history as a world browsing event. Bells Seaside at Easter is such an iconic event in the pantheon of standup surfing that it is the good alternative to pitch the bodysurfing query. Within the final five or six years I've been doing a whole lot of ocean swimming for training, in bigger surf.
CARROLL: Properly, I've body surfed ever since I used to be a tiny kid- it seems virtually extra of a pure factor to do than to log on on a surf board. After I might end my coaching swim, and the surf's four or six feet, then I'd simply hold and physique surf for ages- I've actually enjoyed getting higher at it. It is such an amazing talent to have in case you are a surfie, one thing like being a fish. CARROLL: It is enjoyable to surf at evening but it's additionally a bit dangerous- harder to orient your self along with your board and you may get harm with the surfboard flying around.
So body surfing is the bitchin' alternative, particularly while you dive down and take a look beneath the water and the moon's shining brightly. ZERMAN: Many Australians dwell near the coast, study to swim at the seaside and can body surf almost naturally. ZERMAN: Some Hawaiian and Californian bodysurfers are rather more the large wave varieties, either bodysurfing the reefs at Pipeline in 15 to 20 foot faces or surfing the Wedge and dropping 20 ft right into a sandy backside. In California I think about it's fairly tough to be a bodysurfer because most seashores do not have waves which are excellent for bodysurfing.
So I'd organized an interview with Nick Carroll , surf journalist and writer, in regards to the perceptions of bodysurfing by the mainstream surfing community. Nick writes for Browsing magazine (USA) and Australian Browsing Life in addition to offering features surfing tours and daily information for the web site. He has a pretty good handle on the politics of the surf world, being a former competitor and the elder brother (and sometime coach) of two-time nineteen eighties world surfing champion, Tom Carroll.